What Works for What Concern
When it comes to skincare, serums are the powerhouse products. Unlike cleansers or moisturizers, serums are formulated with high concentrations of active ingredients designed to target specific skin concerns. But with so many actives to choose from, how do you know which ones are right for your brand’s formulation—and how can you combine them safely and effectively?
At FP Labs, we specialize in creating serums that are not only effective but also stable, safe, and tailored to your unique vision. Below, we break down four of the most in-demand actives—Vitamin C, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Hyaluronic Acid, and Squalane—and share insights into how to use them in modern formulations.
Vitamin C: The Brightening Antioxidant
What it does
- Neutralizes free radicals, protecting skin from environmental stressors
- Promotes collagen production for firmer, more youthful-looking skin
- Brightens uneven skin tone and reduces the appearance of dark spots
Best for
- Dullness, hyperpigmentation, early signs of aging
Formulation notes
- Vitamin C is notoriously unstable when exposed to light, heat, and oxygen
- Works best in formulas with a pH of 3–3.5 (for L-ascorbic acid)
- Stabilized forms (like sodium ascorbyl phosphate) can be used at higher pH levels for better stability
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): The Multi-Tasker
What it does
- Improves skin barrier function, reducing moisture loss
- Minimizes redness and blotchiness, making it ideal for sensitive skin
- Helps regulate sebum production, which is beneficial for acne-prone skin
- Reduces the appearance of fine lines and enlarged pores
Best for
- Oily, sensitive, or aging skin
Formulation notes
- Works in a wide pH range (around 5–7), making it versatile in formulations
- Pairs well with most other actives, though caution is needed when combining with low-pH actives like pure Vitamin C to avoid irritation
Hyaluronic Acid: The Ultimate Hydrator
What it does
- Acts as a humectant, drawing up to 1,000 times its weight in water into the skin
- Plumps skin instantly, reducing the appearance of fine lines
- Improves skin elasticity with consistent use
Best for
- All skin types, especially dry or dehydrated skin
Formulation notes
- Available in different molecular weights:
- High molecular weight hydrates the surface
- Low molecular weight penetrates deeper for longer-lasting hydration
- Functions well across pH ranges and is generally non-irritating
Squalane: The Lightweight Oil
What it does
- Mimics the skin’s natural lipids, reinforcing the barrier
- Provides lightweight, non-greasy hydration
- Has antioxidant properties to protect against free radical damage
Best for
- Dry, sensitive, or mature skin types
Formulation notes
- Highly stable and compatible with most actives
- Non-comedogenic, making it safe for acne-prone skin
- Often used to balance out more water-heavy serums with an emollient feel
How to Combine Actives Safely
The art of serum formulation isn’t just choosing powerful actives—it’s making sure they work together harmoniously.
- pH compatibility: Vitamin C in its purest form requires a low pH, which can destabilize niacinamide or cause irritation. Stabilized forms of Vitamin C are often better for multi-active serums.
- Stability considerations: Antioxidants like Vitamin E can help stabilize Vitamin C, extending its shelf life.
- Irritation risk: Combining strong actives (like high-dose Vitamin C + niacinamide) can increase sensitivity. Using lower concentrations or encapsulated actives reduces this risk.
- Texture balance: A mix of humectants (like hyaluronic acid), emollients (like squalane), and water-soluble actives ensures a serum feels elegant and delivers results.
Final Thoughts
Serums are the heart of modern skincare routines because they deliver visible results. The key is selecting the right actives for your target audience and formulating them in a way that maximizes both efficacy and stability.
At FP Labs, we bring together scientific expertise, rigorous testing, and creative formulation to craft serums that truly stand out. Whether you’re envisioning a brightening serum, a hydration booster, or an all-in-one multi-active blend, our team can help turn your vision into reality.